Fiddle Yard‎ > ‎

Help Requests

Any request for help is welcome. These will mainly be railway-related but as it's in the Fiddle Yard, you can ask about anything you wish. For example, where to stay when travelling to a railway.

Railway-related requests will be moved to the relevant section when they have run their "request" course.

Please add each new request by clicking the "New post" button. This will automatically open a new page.

Whistles and Draincocks

posted 14 Jul 2010, 08:51 by Doc Turner

I have spent a pleasant afternoon sorting out the atcuation of Lady Anne's whistle, an Bangham mounted under the footplate on the left. The lever is mounted on the rear cab wall and activated by a length of nylon fishing line that passes through a brass tube to a servo in the right tank. A hard tube passes across th cab at chest height to the lever and a soft tube runs from there down to the whistle. Heath Robinson would be proud.
 
I fancy a cab mounted one which DJB now do specifically for Lady Anne but am in doubt about it. Will it sound like it oughter? Where will the lever go? How can I get a simple link from a smaller servo to the lever? Where would that servo go?
 
I fancy fitting a whistle to my Argyll too. Has anyone any experience of that?
 
Automatic draincocks seem a good idea. Are they? I would be frit about drilling and tapping into the floor of my cylinders, though i suppose RH would cheerfully sell me more if I loused it up. I'd like the collective view about this too.

Droplights

posted 23 May 2010, 07:35 by Doc Turner

I am constructing a composite first/first third coach and have come to the decision point about one issue on which I seek guidance. One little tiny piece of me would like to build the windows of the third compartment open enough to allow some child or drunken third class oik to hang his head out. The walls are laminated with, as the filling of the sandwich, a glazing spacer which hold the glass panes perfectly without glue. It would be no problem to cut away the base of each window space to permit the glass to sit lower. The leather strap would be shorter of course by an appropriate amount and the wooden droplight surrounds would be cut to suit and the now visible top edge would need something as simple as paper to accept paint. Now, what I need to know is this. How far down would the window drop inside the door? All the way? The leather strap seems to suggest that and if I assume that you had no handle inside and therefore needed to lean out to open the door on arrival, it would be a pain to have it less than fully down.
 
If I mount it fully down, I don't need to use the acrylic at all, merely to insert a small piece of painted ply to suggest a window top. Part of me thinks that it would look less like a missing window if I had it just a bit up.
 
Your thoughts, one and all? I thank you.

Coach accessories

posted 23 Apr 2010, 06:18 by Doc Turner   [ updated 24 Apr 2010, 05:28 by Paul owlpool ]

I am constructing a rake of 5 Brandbright premier panelled coaches and have, for some reason, decided to build two simultaneously; the Directors' Saloon and the smallest four wheeled two compartment, second class.  It sounds daft but it works well because of the business of painting before assembly and waiting for things to dry and/or set. It also allows thinking time and I am learning some skills from the least important coach that are paying off for the bigger one.
 
You all realise that I know nothing about railways whatsoever. I'm just a modeller who has found this side of modelling very late in life. The downside of the ignorance is balanced by the upside of there being no taboos to me. I don't really want to create a layout or even a coach that makes the cognoscenti laugh out loud, but am not too worried about that that I am frozen into only modelling, for example, Ffestiniog between 8 am and 4 pm on the 12th of October 1936.
 
I normally don't do subtle nor understated. (No, Dai, really? I would never have guessed!) Therefore, I'd quite like to trick these coaches out with every bit of 'stuff' that I can get and Brandbright can supply a good range of all sorts. Trouble is to decide just exactly what, and there's the rub. I need the advice of those experienced about railways and maybe too, those who simply have an eye for what looks good. You see, I don't. My 'eye' is rubbish.

David here are two of mine showing some of the ways I have done this:

On this picture (not the best but the best one I have to hand), you can see the louvres above the doors, the vac pipe and the tail lamp. Also note the guard's ducket has been modified to match the panels on the main coach body. As it comes, it only has a single bead at the waist. (JSJ)


 
Door ventilator cowls are not a difficult decision. For me, louvred rather than plain and given that the interior detailing has the inside brass slidy bits, I can't see why they were not supplied with the kit anyway.
 
Vacuum pipes. I'm from Barcelona and i know nothing but I gather that all coaches ought to be linked this way. Are there any pitfalls I need to think about?
 
The roof. Ventilators or Lamp Tops? Now, I';m guessing that this is an era thing and that if I want to suggest my coaches are restored Victorian, they would have lamp tops ( but what sort?) and later, ventilators. Who can tell? Certainly not I.
 
The Directors' Saloon has  end picture windows which makes me think it ought to be coupled last, affording a view down the track. If this is the case, shouldn't it have a tail light?  Where and what sort?
 
I'd quite like to be able to remove the roof from time to time so I want an alternative fixing method other than glueing it down. Has  anyone found a good way of doing that with a Brandbright kit?

Roof bending method (this is actually the roof of the brass tourist open coach which uses GSM sides but the principle is the same (JSJ)


The tool of choice for heating the ply



Here are the formers. These were an experiment in using mdf but I have now switched back to ply. The longitudinal strips also provide rigidity in this case at the top of the brass sides but this is not necessary with the Brandbright coaches (JSJ)





 
If I must glue down the roof, I'd like to fit interior lighting, not least because of the interior detailing I am bothering with. It seems a pity to do all this and only have a minimal view through the windows.

JRinTawa's generic coaches based around brass etched sides from a GSM project.  If you click on the picture to load the full size picture you can just make out in the top corner of the end the brass pins that hold the roof on.  Note rain strips above the doors, two different patterns.  The tail lamp is from Brandbright.

I use plasticard - an L shaped piece stuck onto the underside of the roof [Paul owlpool]
1mm hole drilled through top dead centre end section and lug, and an accucraft hex head bolt tapped in - makes for easy removal
the steps are home-made
seen more easily pre painting
 
 


Coaches for a Ffestiniog "Funny Train"

posted 11 Apr 2010, 08:43 by John St James   [ updated 11 Apr 2010, 08:46 ]

Added by Peter Bunce

I have a long term plan for what the late David Jenkinson called a 'funny train' - NO not a derogatory term, but train of different period etc to the rest of the layout stock. My period is 1880 American Narrow Gauge, so that description is perfect for what I want! 

That is hopefully, that is a Festiniog Railway train in 1880 livery (coach colours as LNWR, loco colours as Midland!) with the original Taliesin on the front, - now which make for the coaches? Brandbright, or IP? 

Bug boxes would be at the front, so some fiddlin' would have to be done to get 45mm wheelsets in in (raise the floor a bit?) and a Ashbury coach or two (IP say they will make some - when I don't know, I may see Ivan at the Portmadog show and ask him) There is also a differece in scale I think the peculiar scale (18.35mm per foot?)is used by IP. 

I have a Stainz that will be the chassis for 'Tal' have you any ideas re the coaches at all please? I think it will be one or t'other as they will not mix!

On the Earl/Countess, why is there blanking plug on the pressure gauge banjo?

posted 7 Mar 2010, 03:25 by John St James   [ updated 7 Mar 2010, 03:51 ]

See photo

Here is is from another angle. It's on the top left of the picture below and serves no obvious purpose. The Lawley and Caradoc don't have it. It's obviously for a steam take-off of some sort and very handy too. Just not sure exactly what for. For example a nice little servo-controlled dummy draincock valve would be possible but I very much doubt if Accucraft are in the business of adding neat little extras like that. A take-off for the whistle would be possible but the DJB whistle has its own banjo. Maybe Accucraft were intending to add a whistle?



1-5 of 5